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Pointbreak Morning Patrol Dianes

3 July, 2011



In case you are thinking what a point break is, it is a long, well shaped wave that breaks over reef, rocks, cobblestones and sand. In the following three paragraphs, I will talk about how it feels to ride a good point break. For this, I need you to use your imagination a little bit. Suppose you are a surfer and you have a considerable amount of experience; it’s a great day, so you prepare yourself to surf a good pointbreak. Early in the morning you get out of bed and eat a good fortifying breakfast. When you finish eating, you put on your surfing shorts and go out to the pointbreak. When you get there, you find a good point for paddling out. You look at the ocean and notice how splendid it looks.

So there you are; you are ready for action, smiling while looking at most excellent lines, and you see friends who are frigid, but blissful nonetheless. Those are the pals who will paddle out with you. You watch the waves for a matter of minutes while timing every single set. When it seems as if a lull is on its way, you run towards the ocean very quickly, taking your board with you. You jump into the shorebreak and land on your board. This gives you a good running start for the paddle out. What an awesome feeling that you get with the initial jump! Once settled and paddling out, you look up and go towards the lineup. While paddling out, you could possibly get hit by a couple of waves. However, there are some skills which can be learned so that you can deal with almost any waves without the necessity of bailing your surfboard. Obviously, there will be occasions in which you are left with no other option, but do not do it unless of course ENIRELY NEEDED! This is because this is almost ALWAYS a bad idea, given that your leash can split, leaving you without a surfboard, which could hit another person.

You can learn two strategies for paddling out. One is termed duck diving, which is usually used by surfers with short boards. The other one is referred to as turning turtle, which is used by surfers with big boards. They usually do this with really high waves. If the waves aren’t so high, they can also duck dive. An additional option they have is to just bulldoze their way out over the foamball. They can do this with no trouble since they have big boards that can paddle rapidly.

Now, getting back to this morning’s session, lets look at everything that has happened so far:

  1. You have already made it out.
  2. The offshore wind is softly blowing.
  3. The sun is shining a perfectly angled dawning light.
  4. For now, these waves belong to you, your household and your buddies.

Every thing is perfect. What I am about to write, I write with maximum sincerity: This indeed is the greatest thing that any person could ever wish for… I cannot picture anything more desirable than the following description: You cheer your young children on, and at the same time they show you how to surf, you heckle your friends, and you surf on the best pointbreak waves conceivable. Cruise ships and luxurious hotels don’t even compare. It’s all about discovering wonderful waves; waves that you will never forget. Surfing is very enjoyable. However, that’s not all. It is also good for teaching respect, and how to be patient and to relax. You can’t find any more effective therapy than this

Lets discuss my first wave of today now. I’m now surfing on what could quite possibly prove to be a fanatastic wave. It’s peaking up early, and it seems as though I can pull into a nice tube, right off the drop. I pull into the barrell and observe the wave going above my head. I look out of the tube and return a grin to a girl who’s smiling at me. Then I come flying out of the barrell at a very high speed. Next, I make a hard, fast drive down the line of the wave, make a turn off the bottom and do a cutback. I do this turning back into the breaking part of the wave with all the power I can muster, and I pull it off. I realize, then, that my legs have become numb. Consequently, I wait a bit, pant, slap my upper thighs, and when my strength is back, I go ahead and do some tricks, with an attempt to finish the wave with a idiotic manuever. Then I walk back to the point for some drinking water, sunblock, and back to the waves it is…

Now you may be wondering why point breaks are so good; why Bodhisatva dedicated himself to them. Well, if that’s so, here are six reasons why. First of all, they are usually really adequately shaped, and they offer barrells, wave faces for carving and perfect peaks to throw gallons of water around. Second, crowd-wise, they are rather spread out, and they normally have different parts to the wave. Third, sometimes, even a surfer who isn’t so good can do some nice tricks and look like a pro. Fourth, you actually spend as much time paddling as riding waves at pointbreaks. Fifth, You are able to almost play around in some pointbreak tubes unlike most beachbreak barrells. And sixth, they’re the longest waves you can find, and they are pretty entertaining.

The surf is excellent, this great sport can help you in many facts of your life, like be good, healthy and have quality time with yours family and friends.

July 14 2010 11:54 am | Uncategorized

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