Surfing decent waves is definitely more fun than just hangin’ out… as a matter of fact, it is more enjoyable than virtually anything I can imagine. There is one aspect of surfing, on the other hand, that is even more than simply fun… it is, in truth, a lot like making love, or even being born again. That most amazing of feelings is referred to as “getting barrelled”, and if you ask any long-time, well-traveled surfer, they will pretty much all claim precisely the same thing – there is nothing at all they would prefer to do than get into a long, deep tube, completely disappearing from the beachgoer’s view, and then speed out of the barrell, back again into daylight and with the most fantastic feeling, a sensation as if they’ve just entered a wormhole into another world and returned – and in a way, that’s exactly what takes place…
Most surfers will agree that when you’re in the tube, time expands. It might possibly be an antithesis to scientific laws, but perhaps some day a physicist may very well find this concept to be genuine, even for just a split second.
Anyway, being in an overhead tube, with the glass curtain of the wave hitting the water out ahead of the tip of your surfboard, and concentrating so intently that it is practically unattainable to illustrate is truly being in the zone – “tunnel vision” does not quite do it justice. When you emerge cleanly maybe you will get off a few choice turns, or perhaps just make a turn, and head up and over the back of the wave with a glued-on smirk. In any event, when you’re over with the wave, you have paddled back out to the lineup, and have a chance to get settled, you’ll recall each little bit of the barrell, each and every plummeting drop, like it is a crystal-clear memory being played in slow motion on a plasma screen. You’ll discover that ten or 20 years later, you can remember even the littlest aspects of a great barrell. The most desirable tubes are located on the highest quality waves, which, as much as for barrells, are usually reefbreaks and poinbreaks. Reefbreaks can feature big, wide open barrells you could fit a Volkswagen vehicle in, and offers that bonus kick of risky excitement to your adrenaline soup. You can look around a tiny bit and delight in the view in a big tube – some good surfers actually look backwards into the abyss! Pointbreak tubes can be long, long ones, tubes that you can truly forsake that hard concentration, just a bit, and have fun in the tube, running your fingertips along the rising wall of water on one side, and feeling the breaking lip falling with your other hand.
The sensation that an individual feels when coming out of a barrell can be described in 2 different ways, which are the following:
- Being born again.
- Having sex.
The first one is because you are in the ocean’s womb, and you come out into the daylight. However, when you do this, you are not weeping. You are yelling with contentment, instead. Another difference is that no one spanks you. I will explain the second one without being overly descriptive. You see a wave that you like, take off and ride in expectation of pulling into an excellent barrel, then you get as deep as possible, focusing on absolutely nothing else but body and mind. You ride the tube and forget all about time. Then, when you are pulling out of the barrell, you might come out from the tube in a spew of whitewater.
Now let me wipe my eyebrow just a moment..
My intention with this description is not to offend you. A Surfer Magazine poll demonstrated that over half the surfers feel that the only thing there is in the world that is better than sex is riding the tube. I now end this article, hoping that I’ve left you with the idea of learning the fantastic adventure of getting tubed. This activity is very much like riding a bicycle. You’ll never forget your first time, and you’ll get better the more you practice.
August 01 2010 08:56 pm | Uncategorized